Cheeky Czech Beer Cafe; a Review

Is anyone else tired of this “foodie” movement?

In a time where the typical restaurant dinner consists of a delicately-plated meal served up on a bed of flower petals and pored over like the Mona Lisa… there is a comforting, homely welcome in real, hearty, delicious food. Cheeky Czech delivers just that.

Now don’t get me wrong, I love fine food just as much as the next person. A night out at a hatted restaurant is my idea of a great birthday meal – but silver service every day? Absence does make the heart grow fond, and a modest meal from time-to-time certainly makes my belly appreciate five-star cuisine when it gets it.

See, I think there is a honesty that is unbeatable when it comes to simple fare. Whether it is pasta on the Italian Riviera, or pork belly in Prague, or even my mum’s chicken curry, call me uncouth but a rustic feed will win me over any day.

Luckily, one doesn’t have to travel all the way to Prague for a good pork belly. Cheeky Czech in Sydney’s inner west suburb of Newtown dazzles – and not only because of it’s unmissable yellow beacon, hanging outside the front door.

The restaurant has it’s daily deals signposted outside – but my husband has a weakness for pork belly, and I for goulash, so our choices are made before we even arrived.

The goulash doesn’t disappoint. Served with bread dumplings to mop up the thick, spicy gravy, it is authentic as the first Czech dinner we had on our visit to Prague. I savour every last mouthful, the tender meat pulling apart like fairy-floss, and the paprika igniting my mouth just enough to warm it (although for a palate that isn’t used to Indian food, it might be quite hot!). A perfect balance that doesn’t leave my belly too heavy – not too much meat (my pet hate), not too much bread, just enough sauce.

Proper Beef Goulash: Lightly spicy stew with onions, beer, paprika, garlic, chilli, herbs & spices. Served with bread dumplings.

The pork belly (a rather small portion, although it is quite rich and fatty) is drizzled with a mysterious-but-luscious sauce, presented with a dollop of red cabbage and, this time, potato dumplings. The classic combination of salty-crusted pork with sweet cabbage did not disappoint, although the dumplings were a bit heavy (but what else would you expect, it’s potato).

“Knedlo Zelo”: Crisp but tender pork belly with crackling roasted on apples, onion & garlic, served with spinach puree or red cabbage & potato dumplings.

For the vegetarians, there’s even a separate menu for you! We tried the brie to share between us, a wheel of cheese that oozes its way into your belly and heart alike. We actually meant to order the marinated brie, served with sour kraut and chilli, but they heard us wrong (on two occasions in fact) – I WILL have to go back and try it. I suggest you point at the menu when ordering, as our hosts may have difficulty understanding English at times.

Double Brie Cheese Steak: Served with homemade chips, tartar sauce & cranberry sauce.

Finally, one can’t visit a Czech restaurant and not try the beer – and this one has a variety of belly-warming brews (only a handful of them are Czech), served in glasses so large I feel like Jack on top of the beanstalk. We try a different one each time we visit, but if you’re opting for the daily special, note that you’ll be drinking house beer, not one of your choosing. Not that it’s a problem, the house beer is probably one of the best on the menu!

In summary, we can’t fault this place. The food and drinks are excellent, the hosts friendly and chatty, the decor jolly. And the price – perfect.