Before we arrived in Europe, I spent hours reading up on the best shopping in Paris. I scoured the internet and my favourite reference books, and wrote down the addresses of a dozen bookshops, stationary shops, and of course, shoe shops. Inevitably, we didn’t get to them all. But here are my top 4 in the 4th; a few of my favourites that were mere minutes (via scooter) from our apartment in the Marais.

Boutique shops selling everything from designer olive oil to designer ballet shoes are hidden in the maze of 4th Arrondisement backstreets.

1) Our first stop is at a shop featured in my bible for this week, “Paris”, written by Janelle McCulloch. (A fantastic read, it contains Paris’ best kept secrets; shops, walks, and insights into each Arrondisement.)

Tiny tutu’s hang from the racks of Repetto, a shop that was once dedicated to all things dance-inspired, now having branched out into shoes, bags, fragrance and fashion. A bun-wielding assistant helps a miniature ballerina try on outfits, while we examine the wheel of colour in the centre of the floor; mary-janes and loafers of every shade fanned out like a rainbow sun. I have never seen so much pretty in my life, nor so many ballet flats in one place! Credit card in tact, my husband hastily pushes me out the door, the relief of being purchase-less washing over him when we are back on the street.

You can find Repetto in various locations around the city (and the world), but the one we visited was at 51 rue des Francs Bourgeois. It’s opening hours are:
Monday – Saturday: 10.30 – 7.30
Sunday: 1.00 – 7.30

On our way to the other end of the 4th, a small community theater covered in bill posters greets us at yet another intersection of alleyways, the very epitome of this charming suburb;

2) Our journey takes us to “Stationary Street”, in particular, to visit Melodies Graphiques, run by expert calligrapher Eric de Tugny.

Let me say, first and foremost, that no words can do this shop justice. It was my dragons den of treasure; delicately-bound notebooks, beautifully hand-made paper, glass bottles of calligraphy inks and feathered pens, ribbons, stamps, bookmarks… my Achilles heel. For such a quiet little shop it commands a huge presence; walking in you are struck with the elaborate art of each individual item, neatly laid out on the shelves so as to not appear too busy despite the sheer volume of nick-knacks. Eric himself sits at the counter, bent over a book and alternatively chatting to a friend. He doesn’t seem too concerned with us; I assume with all the publicity the shop gets he must tire of tourists.

I am allowed to buy a few small trinkets, but my greatest treasure of all was the hand-crafted, heart-shaped bookmark made of pure gold that my husband secretly bought and gifted to me for Christmas. Sadly, I lost this a few months ago when it slipped out of my book on the train. As a result, when I hear of any friends or family going to Paris I constantly ask them to pick up another for me if they’re in the area. No luck so far!

You can find Melodies Graphiques at 10 rue de Pont Louis-Phillippe. Oh, and if you happen to visit and see a gold, heart-shaped bookmark… do me a favour? 🙂

3) Assouline isn’t exactly in the 4th, but it’s close enough by scooter or metro – we pop by after a morning in Montmartre. A New-York based boutique catering to another of my weaknesses, it is located in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the 6th Arrondisement.

The luxury book shop is home to the largest collection of coffee-table books I have ever seen. This place is decadent; from elegant volumes dedicated to the fashion gurus of the last century, to a range of candles that evoke the scent of a library; leather, wood, and books. I am lost within its walls for what seems to be hours, while my husband chooses to wait outside, enjoying the automobile-eye-candy and street performers singing tribute to Edith nearby the famous Les Deux Magots restaurant (once a haven for Paris’ creative underbelly, frequently visited by the likes of Hemingway, Picasso and folk). If you love books, and you have money to spend (or just want to browse), this should be a “must-visit” on your list!

You can find Assouline at 35 rue Bonaparte. It’s opening hours are:
Monday: 12.00 – 7.00
Tuesday – Saturday: 10.30 – 7.30
Sunday: Closed

4) One late night as we walked home after a long day in Normandy, we stumble upon Delices de France; it is raining and dark, most of the other shops along the strip are closed, but the light of this chocolaterie shines bright like a beacon, drawing us into its warmth. A tourist shop by all means, the walls are lined with french-themed chocolate, biscuits, candy, foie-gras, flavoured olive oils and salts, and more. It is our last night in Paris, so it ends up being a perfectly-timed last-minute stop to purchase souvenirs for family back home (and maybe a treat or two for ourselves).

You can find Delices de France at 186 rue de Rivoli.

There are so many other shops I could write about; hatters and boulangeries, the Galeries Lafayette and even more bookshops, but instead I’ll direct you to my two favourite resources for you to pick a journey around Paris that is tailored perfectly to you; again, the bible, Paris, by Janelle McCulloch, and “The Holiday Goddess” by Jessica Adams and Anna Johnson. I’ve loaned these books to friends before, and they end up photocopying their favourite bits (i.e the whole book); needless to say they come highly recommended.

Good luck with your Paris, and amusez-vous bien!

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